5 Smoked Beers to Try Now

Smoked beer accounts for only a small share of the US market, yet it is a divisive style, including among dedicated beer enthusiasts. Ranging from gently smoked helles lagers to bold, full-bodied rauchbiers, these beers are made with smoked malts. Their character can differ dramatically according to the woods used and how long the maltster exposes the malt to smoke. Consequently, the intensity of the smoky flavour varies too.

“Historically, all beer at one point probably was smoky,” says Ben Smith, head brewer at Surly Brewing Company in Minneapolis. “Initially, when people were drying malted barley, they were using a kind of a direct fire system, where you're going to get some smoke coming through the malt as it's drying.” Nowadays, malt is indirectly dried in kilns specifically to prevent that smoky character-unless smoke is the intended result.

Smoked beers may require a little adjustment at first. Fortunately, they generally work well alongside other flavours.

“Smoked beers are surprisingly versatile for food pairings,” says Tim Adams, founder of Oxbow Brewing Company in Newcastle, Maine.

Adams notes that Bamberg, Germany, is widely regarded as the capital of smoked beer, and recommends beginning with traditional German dishes centred on pork and cabbage. Smith advises matching “like with like.” A delicately smoked beer, for instance, is a good match for smoky barbecue. He does, however, advise avoiding desserts and other sweet foods, which can heighten the harsh qualities of smoked malt.

Brian Yaeger, founder of the Diff’rent Smokes rauchbier festival and a self-described smoked beer enthusiast, recommends having fun and keeping an open mind. “Rauchbier is the most punk rock style,” he says. “It is awesome, but it's easy to understand why it's a turn-off to many, so brewing and drinking it is a delectable middle finger to the masses in a way no other craft beer style is.”

Here are several beers to help you explore smoked beer.

Surly Brewing Company – You Want This Smoke

Smith describes this light German lager, available only at the taproom, as a tribute to Bamberg, Germany’s smoked-beer heritage. It offers an excellent entry to the style because it uses only a small quantity of beech-smoked malt, chiefly delivering aroma with a subtle touch of flavour.

“Halfway through the pint, you almost don't even taste the smoke anymore,” says Smith. Once the first few mouthfuls have passed, he explains, the beer’s other traits begin to come forward. “It’s low ABV [at 4.5%], so you can have two or three of them. They’re great in a mug at Oktoberfest.”

Oxbow Brewing Company – Oxtoberfest

Adams says Oxtoberfest is a Märzen-inspired smoked bière de garde informed by Belgian, German and French brewing customs. “The majority of our smoked beers are yeast-driven, Belgian-style farmhouse ales, “ he says. “There are very few examples of smoked beers in modern Belgian brewing, but we find the smoke character to be complementary to the fruit and spice flavor found in these styles.”

Oxtoberfest is 6% ABV, striking a skilful balance between its malt and yeast profiles. The finish carries a moderate smoky note, while the beer remains easy-drinking, particularly alongside a soft Bavarian pretzel.

Dovetail Brewery – Grodziskie

Grodziskies rank among the more subtly smoked beers in this category. Though they can be hard to find, their light body and low alcohol content make them one of the strongest introductions to the style. Dovetail’s seasonal version is 3.8% ABV, combining citrus brightness with gentle smoke in a medium-bodied beer with a refreshing finish.

Alaskan Brewing Company – Smoked Porter

Rauchbier, German for “smoke beer”, did not reach the US until 1988. In that year, Alaskan released its smoked porter for the first time: a pioneering smoky beer that helped familiarise American drinkers with the style. Alaskan’s Smoked Porter has earned more medals at the Great American Beer Festival than any other beer in history. It is rich and complex, matures exceptionally well, and is equally enjoyable when fresh.

Threes Brewing – Thought Experiment Smoked Peach

Matt Levy, head brewer at Threes Brewing in Brooklyn, New York, created the brewery’s Thought Experiment series. For it, smoked helles is removed from an oak foeder and aged with whole fruit from the brewery’s barrel-aged programme. The peach version is 5.2% ABV, bringing together a bubbly saison-like body, vibrant fruit character and an evocative smoky accent.

“There’s something primal about the flavor,” says Levy, who encourages beer fans to sample a variety of smoked styles. “Why not try and see if you can find one that you like?”