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Jean-Michel Cohen approves only one supermarket milk roll brand

Woman holding a packaged baked good while a man in a doctor’s coat pushes a shopping trolley in a supermarket aisle.
In this article
  1. Why milk rolls are more problematic than many people realise
  2. The one supermarket brand the doctor accepts
  3. What this “good” milk roll composition means nutritionally
  4. The hidden sugar trap in toppings
  5. How to identify better milk rolls in the supermarket
  6. When milk rolls are a poor fit – and when they are acceptable

A nutritional doctor now gives genuine approval to just one supermarket brand.

Soft, mildly sweet and hugely popular with children: that is how many people know the classic milk roll. Yet its innocent image often hides a sugar trap. In a shopping guide, a well-known nutrition doctor assessed numerous products and reached a surprising conclusion: among the widely available supermarket milk rolls, he truly recommends only one particular version.

Why milk rolls are more problematic than many people realise

For many families, milk rolls are a regular part of breakfast and often serve as a quick afternoon snack. Nutritionally, they mainly provide carbohydrates, which means energy for the day. That is precisely what makes them appealing to children: they are readily available and taste pleasant.

The issue is that many industrially produced options contain not only flour, milk and eggs, but also generous amounts of sugar and, in some cases, less favourable fats. What appears to be an innocuous bread roll therefore becomes a sweet baked item that belongs more in the “treat” category than in a balanced meal.

Milk rolls are considered a “treat product”: permitted, but only in limited amounts and not every day.

Nutrition doctor Jean-Michel Cohen clearly classes milk rolls alongside croissants and other pastries as treat products. His advice is a maximum of twice a week, for both children and adults. Those who eat them daily can quietly rack up many “liquid” calories, which can soon show on the scales.

The one supermarket brand the doctor accepts

In his shopping guide, Cohen took a closer look at milk rolls sold in shops. In the end, just one product receives his genuine approval: La Boulangère fresh milk rolls with no added sugar, sold in packs of ten.

The key point is that these rolls contain no extra added sugar. They naturally contain sugars from the flour and milk, but they have not been artificially sweetened further. This is exactly what sets the product apart from many competing items on supermarket shelves.

One variety is made without extra sugar in the dough – a real advantage in a doctor’s assessment.

The expert praises more than the absence of added sugar; he also approves of the remaining ingredients. The product includes, among other things:

  • 58% wheat flour
  • 12.5% fresh whole eggs
  • 7.6% fresh, pasteurised skimmed milk
  • rapeseed oil as the source of fat
  • natural sourdough rather than industrial yeast
  • barley flour and acerola juice powder as additional ingredients

Cohen rates the use of sourdough particularly positively. Sourdough can improve digestibility, enhance flavour and, to some extent, reduce the glycaemic effect of the baked product.

What this “good” milk roll composition means nutritionally

Compared with plain white wheat rolls, the combination of flour, eggs and milk provides somewhat more protein and nutrients. Using skimmed milk also prevents the fat content from becoming excessively high. Rapeseed oil is made up mainly of unsaturated fatty acids and is regarded as a comparatively favourable source of fat.

The milk roll is still an energy-dense product, but within this category, this version is among the more sensible choices. It is explicitly not a diet food; rather, it is a “better choice” within a less healthy product group.

For the doctor, this milk roll is not a superfood, but a “solid standard” on the sweet pastry shelf.

How often can a milk roll be served?

Cohen remains strict: even the better-formulated product should not appear in the bread basket every day. He considers twice a week the upper limit. The reason is the overall combination of sugar, starch and energy content. Many people also consume sweetened drinks, sweet yoghurts or snacks, so their sugar intake can quickly add up.

It is especially worth looking closely at children’s diets. Regularly offering sweet baked goods gradually pushes their taste preferences towards foods that are “very sweet”. Vegetables, wholemeal bread or plain yoghurt can then seem dull and bland. This raises the risk of excess weight and, in the longer term, problems such as insulin resistance.

The hidden sugar trap in toppings

Even those choosing the “better” no-added-sugar milk roll can undo the benefit with the wrong topping. From a medical perspective, classic accompaniments such as a thick layer of chocolate spread, plenty of butter with jam, or sweetened nut spreads are major traps.

Cohen advises cutting back substantially on sweet spreads or using only a very thin layer. If you have already chosen a mildly sweet roll, the topping should counterbalance it rather than add even more sweetness.

  • Chocolate spread: high in sugar and fat, with little satiating effect
  • Butter plus jam: a double calorie boost in a small serving
  • Sweet nut spreads: often contain more sugar than nuts

More practical everyday options include neutral or protein-rich toppings: a thin layer of cream cheese, a little sugar-free nut butter, cheese, or simply eating the roll plain with a glass of milk or unsweetened cocoa. This keeps the sugar content more manageable.

How to identify better milk rolls in the supermarket

Although Cohen’s highlighted brand is currently his preferred option, some general rules can be drawn from it to help with shopping. Reading labels quickly reveals major differences.

Criterion Better choice Less good choice
Sugar in the ingredients list no added sugar, no syrups sugar or glucose-fructose syrup listed near the beginning
Source of fat rapeseed oil, sunflower oil palm oil, hydrogenated fats
Raising agent sourdough only baker’s yeast
Egg and milk content clearly stated, in a meaningful amount only traces, with no further detail

Checking the nutrition table is useful too: the lower the sugar content per 100 grams, the better. Anyone eating two milk rolls should remember that the figures can quickly double.

When milk rolls are a poor fit – and when they are acceptable

People who are overweight, have diabetes or experience strongly fluctuating blood sugar should be particularly cautious with sweet baked goods. The combination of rapidly available carbohydrates and often little fibre can cause blood sugar to rise quickly. This may then lead to cravings.

Those who are generally healthy, maintain a healthy weight and are physically active can enjoy a milk roll now and then without immediately feeling guilty. It makes sense to include it in an otherwise balanced meal, for example with plain yoghurt, some fruit and a sugar-free drink.

Practical everyday alternatives

Many families are looking for options that make children happy without turning every meal into a sugar bomb. Alternatives to rotate with milk rolls include:

  • wholemeal bread with cream cheese and cucumber slices
  • porridge oats with milk or yoghurt and fresh fruit
  • home-baked rolls with reduced sugar content
  • plain yoghurt with banana and a small handful of nuts

Anyone who enjoys baking can try making their own milk rolls: use less sugar, more egg and replace some of the flour with wholemeal flour. This preserves their familiar character while improving the nutritional value somewhat.

The message is ultimately fairly clear: among industrially produced milk rolls, there are better and worse options. The brand highlighted by Cohen shows that a product with no added sugar and a somewhat more carefully considered recipe is possible. For day-to-day shopping in German-speaking supermarkets, the rule is to read labels, keep an eye on portion sizes and treat milk rolls for what they are: a small occasional pleasure, not an everyday staple food.

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Harriet Collins

Harriet Collins is a UK-based digital content strategist specialising in personal websites, independent creative projects and online storytelling. She follows the work featured on JohnnyWalls.co, with particular interests in thoughtful web publishing, portfolio development and building an authentic digital presence.

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