Braised Short Ribs with Daikon and Glass Noodles

Active time: 40 mins
Total time: 3 hrs 40 mins
Serves: 4

Why it passed the test

• Braising the short ribs gently for 2 1/2 hours or longer makes the meat exceptionally tender and falling off the bone.
• Soy sauce, sherry, brown sugar and dried shiitake mushrooms give the braising liquid its rich sweet-savoury character.
• With braised root vegetables and satisfyingly chewy glass noodles, this recipe makes a complete meal in one bowl.

"This is a variation of a Korean dish called kalbi tang," explains chef and restaurateur Sang Yoon, who braises and serves the tender short ribs in an intense broth made with dried shiitakes, ginger, soy sauce, and other flavor-packed ingredients. He uses the same broth to cook hearty chunks of carrot and daikon, then spoons everything over Korean glass noodles (dangmyeon) for a delicious one-bowl meal.

What is kalbi tang?

This recipe takes its inspiration from kalbi tang, a name that essentially means “short-rib soup”. The ribs in the traditional dish are likewise slowly cooked, accompanied by radish and aromatics such as onion and garlic, and are sometimes served with noodles. Although kalbi tang is substantial, its flavours are usually relatively delicate; Yoon boosts the intensity here with several additions.

What are dangmyeon?

Dangmyeon are Korean noodles produced from sweet potato starch. Thick, chewy and fast to cook, they are the central ingredient in the Korean classic japchae, although they also feature in soups and other dishes. Look for dangmyeon at a Korean supermarket or online; they may be sold as glass noodles, cellophane noodles or Korean vermicelli.

Notes from the Food & Wine Test Kitchen

Short ribs have plenty of collagen-rich connective tissue, so they need a lengthy, low-temperature cook to turn tender. Trust us: the time required for braising is well worth it.

Ingredients

• 1 tablespoon vegetable oil
• 4 (340 g) flanken-cut beef short ribs, about 3.8 cm thick
• 1 teaspoon salt
• 1 teaspoon ground pepper
• 120 ml dry sherry or Shaoxing wine
• 120 ml soy sauce or tamari
• 120 ml mirin
• 1 onion, thinly sliced
• 8 garlic cloves, crushed
• 1 (5 cm) piece fresh ginger, thinly sliced
• 28 g dried shiitake mushrooms
• 1 tablespoon light brown sugar
• 340 g daikon, peeled and cut into 2.5 cm cubes
• 2 large carrots, cut crosswise into 1.3 cm slices
• 1.4 litres water
• 2 teaspoons toasted sesame oil
• 113 g dried dangmyeon noodles or mung bean noodles

Directions

1. Heat the oven to 165°C. Warm the vegetable oil in a large enamelled cast-iron casserole. Season the ribs with salt and pepper, then brown them over a moderately high heat, turning several times, for about 10 minutes until deeply coloured. Move the ribs to a plate.

2. Pour the sherry into the casserole and bring it to the boil, stirring to loosen the browned residue from the base. Stir in the soy sauce, mirin, onion, garlic, ginger, shiitake mushrooms, brown sugar, and half of both the daikon and carrots. Put the ribs back in the casserole, add the water and bring to the boil. Cover and braise in the oven for about 2 1/2 hours, until the meat is extremely tender.

3. Lift the ribs on to a plate, cover and keep warm. Remove the shiitake mushrooms, cut away and discard their stems. Strain the braising liquid, then return it to the casserole. Boil over a high heat, skimming away any surface fat, until reduced to 950 ml, about 5 minutes.

4. Add the remaining daikon and carrots, the sesame oil and the shiitake mushrooms to the casserole. Cover and simmer over a low heat for 20 minutes, until the vegetables are tender. Return the ribs to the casserole and simmer until warmed through. Season with salt and pepper.

5. At the same time, bring a saucepan of water to the boil. Put the noodles in a bowl, cover with warm water and leave for 5 minutes, until flexible. Drain, then cut the noodles into 10 cm lengths. Cook them in the saucepan until tender yet still chewy, 25 seconds. Drain and divide between shallow bowls. Set the ribs over the noodles, spoon over the vegetables and broth, then serve.

Make ahead

You can complete the beef ribs through Step 2, then refrigerate them in the broth for up to three days. Before reheating, skim off any fat that has risen to the surface.

Suggested pairing

For beer, Yoon suggests a caramel-led dubbel, such as Westmalle.

Originally appeared: February 2010