Spicy California Roll Bowls

Active time: 20 mins
Total time: 55 mins
Serves: 4

Why it passed the test

• A fiery sauce of Kewpie mayonnaise and sriracha coats the imitation crab, creating a creamy topping with the familiar richness and heat of a classic California roll.
• Seasoned sushi rice and gently vinegared cucumber bring freshness and brightness to the bowl.
• Diners can tailor their bowls with flexible extras including avocado, furikake, masago and roasted seaweed snacks.

These rice bowls capture all the appeal of a spicy California roll, without any rolling. Warm seasoned sushi rice provides the base for a creamy imitation crab, or kani, salad dressed with Kewpie mayonnaise, sriracha, toasted sesame oil and a dash of rice vinegar for subtle sweetness. Crisp cucumber, silky avocado and spring onions are added before a crunchy scattering of furikake finishes the dish with plenty of contrasting textures. Serve the bowls with roasted seaweed snacks, which can be used to scoop up the ingredients much like temaki. Masago is optional, although its salty pop makes the bowl feel as though it has come straight from a sushi bar.

Although no rolling is needed, it remains important to rinse the short-grain sushi rice. This removes excess surface starch, helping the cooked grains stay light and fluffy rather than becoming sticky and gluey.

These bowls are highly adaptable. Replace the kani with sushi-grade ahi tuna, salmon or cooked prawns, or choose tofu for a vegetarian version. If Kewpie mayonnaise is unavailable, ordinary mayonnaise is a useful substitute, although it will not have quite the same distinctive richness. The bowls make an excellent lunch to eat at your desk, but they are substantial enough for dinner as well. They also suit meal preparation: prepare the rice and kani salad in advance, then cut the avocado just before serving to keep everything fresh and vibrant.

What is masago?

Masago is capelin roe, from a type of smelt that lives in cold northern waters. It is also frequently labelled and sold as smelt roe. In Japanese cuisine, masago is often used as a sushi garnish or filling, contributing a gently salty flavour and a crisp burst of texture. The roe are naturally pale yellow, or light and translucent, but producers commonly dye them orange and occasionally other colours. Find masago in the chilled or frozen seafood aisle of a Japanese grocer, or buy it online.

Types of imitation crab

Imitation crab is generally made with surimi: a paste of deboned, minced white fish that is usually washed and refined, then combined with starches, egg whites and proteins, seasonings and colourings. Supermarkets sell imitation crab in several forms, which may differ between brands. Flake-style imitation crab separates into fine, delicate pieces and is popular in sushi bowls, crab salads and dips because it mixes readily. Stick-style versions are firmer and can be sliced for classic California rolls or eaten as a snack. Chunk-style pieces are thicker and are especially suitable for hot dishes.

Notes from the Food & Wine Test Kitchen

• Use any leftover masago in omelettes, stirred through pasta, or spooned over cheese and crackers.
• Substitute cooked prawns, smoked salmon, tinned tuna or tofu for the imitation crab.
• Refrigerate or freeze any remaining masago.

Suggested pairing

Serve your California roll in a bowl with a richer, full-bodied sake, such as Bōken Ringo Junmai Ginjo.

This recipe was developed by Justin Chapple; the text was written by Andee Gosnell.

Ingredients

• 480 ml water (2 cups)
• 280 g short-grain sushi rice (1 1/2 cups), well rinsed and drained
• 3/4 teaspoon kosher salt, divided
• 180 ml Kewpie mayonnaise (3/4 cup)
• 45 ml sriracha (3 tablespoons)
• 15 ml toasted sesame oil (1 tablespoon)
• 60 ml plus 22.5 ml seasoned rice vinegar (1/4 cup plus 1 1/2 tablespoons), divided
• 450 g flake-style kani (imitation crab) (1 pound), cut into 2.5 cm pieces (1 inch)
• 30 ml masago (2 tablespoons), optional
• 1 small English cucumber, thinly sliced (about 480 ml / 2 cups)
• 1 avocado, thinly sliced
• Furikake and thinly sliced spring onions, to garnish
• Roasted seaweed (nori) snack sheets, to serve

Directions

1. Bring the 480 ml (2 cups) water to the boil in a medium saucepan over a high heat. Mix in the rice and 1/2 teaspoon salt, then bring back to the boil. Turn the heat down to low, cover and cook without disturbing until the rice is tender and the liquid has been absorbed, about 20 minutes. Take off the heat and leave, still covered, to steam for 15 minutes.

2. While the rice cooks, whisk the mayonnaise, sriracha, sesame oil, 1 tablespoon vinegar and remaining 1/4 teaspoon salt in a large bowl. Spoon 120 ml (1/2 cup) of the mayonnaise mixture into a small bowl and reserve. Add the kani to the remaining mayonnaise mixture and toss until coated. Fold through the masago, if using, and set aside. In a medium bowl, combine the cucumber with 1/2 tablespoon rice vinegar, then set aside.

3. Loosen the rice with a fork. Pour the remaining 60 ml (1/4 cup) vinegar over it, then use a wooden spoon to fold it through gently. Divide the rice among 4 bowls and top evenly with the kani mixture, cucumber and avocado. Finish with furikake and spring onions, and serve with the roasted seaweed snack sheets and reserved mayonnaise mixture.

Make ahead

The rice, crab mixture and sliced vegetables, excluding the avocado, can be prepared up to one day ahead. Keep them separately in airtight containers in the refrigerator. The mayonnaise sauce can be made up to three days in advance and refrigerated in an airtight container.

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